Tranquility lied deep in the roots of this entire 150 acres of Buddhist temples, monasteries and pagodas in Bagan, Myanmar. Seeing the sunrise behind dozens of balloons and ancient temples can be described as nothing less than a once in a lifetime experience.
But there is so much more to this country than the hot-air balloons that tourists pay hundreds of dollars to ride in and the e-bikes that they aimlessly speed around in. If you leave Myanmar without shedding at least a tear, I would say that you haven’t seen (or maybe allowed yourself to feel) the country.
I began my journey in the capitol of Myanmar, Yagon. Getting around was surprisingly easy with an app just like Uber (except pennies to the dollar) called “Grab.” All of my drivers were very sweet, and I was instantly reassured that coming alone as a young woman to Myanmar was just as safe as most anywhere else. Being that it boarders India, I worried the men may look at me differently. But they treated me better than I likely would’ve been treated in many places in America.
Shwedagon Pagoda was the first stop, as I imagine it is for most. I could see its 99 meter-tall stupa from the backseat of the car nearly half a mile away. Being that it was considered the largest and oldest pagodas in the world, and the most sacred Buddhist pagoda in Myanmar, I was surprised that I was the only westerner there. As with all sacred places, everyone must leave their shoes outside, and foreigners (aka me) were required to pay about $7 to enter. And it was well worth it.
It was as if the beauty never ended as I walked around. White shrines here, gold statues there, and rubies and sapphires covering it all. But of course I came during the 3 months that they are constructing general macitence on the pagoda every 5 years, so it was covered in scaffolding. Nonetheless, beautiful.
There were locals that sincerely wanted to walk and talk with me, and after I realized they had genuine intentions, I walked around with one of them. He brought me to the Monday planetary post because I was born on a Monday, and I poured water over the Buddha statue. Barack Obama also did this, but on the Friday statue, on his visit to Yagon. The young boy was very excited to tell me this. He was about 18 years old and so eager to know my life story and to share the history of this pagoda
I then strolled through the Inya Lake, Haha Bandula Garden and visited the Sale Pagoda. All of which were lovely, but the best part was walking aimlessly through downtown Yagon. There were new sky rises next to old wooden homes that were not held together by much, and it was so obvious this country had been through so much, but seemed to be on the downhill slope of it now.
So I hopped in a car for my 10 hour bus ride to Bagan. The “bus terminal” if you could call it that, was dirt rides, small open shops, and cars and massive buses moving in literally every direction. It was absolute chaos. Some were concerned with getting the buses through the nearly 100 other buses and were yelling and running around, while others were sitting on plastic stools enjoying curry and a beer. Then there was me… staring at about 40 different bus company names wondering which one was mine. I sat next to two monks for 10 hours. The bus ride was very pleasant and the bus was in great condition–better condition than most anything else I’d seen thus far. All buses were full and dozens were leaving every 15-30 minutes. I wonder how new this transportation industry is in Myanmar…
The bus stopped in a small dirt parking lot and the driver prompted me to get out (he knew I was going to Bagan). I hopped in a cab and drove straight to my hotel. Just as I arrived at the hotel, the sun was rising, and so were the hot air balloons that I had spent years dreaming of. The timing was impeccable, and I couldn’t have planned it this perfectly even if I tried. It was truly stunning and emensly better than pictures had shown.
If you are going to Bagan, I recommend at least one or two nights at Aureum Palace Bagan Hotel. It was pricey but it was worth every single penny. And when I say penny, I literally mean U.S. currency. They charged food, rooms, massages, everything in U.S. currency and were very surprised when I asked to us my Myanmar money.
Following a pleasant meal amongst primarily couples (and yes, I was asked if I was “really just one” more times than I could count) I rented a scooter from the front desk to take around the temples. Now because it was a nicer hotel, and because they seem so nonchalant about this whole thing, I figured the bike would be nothing…
Wrong. I tipped over before I’d even left the overhang at the hotel entrance. Which indeed provided some comic relief to the workers standing nearby.
During the first day I quite literally aimlessly drove around the paved roads and the dirt roads looking at the hundreds of stunning and ancient structures as I rode by. After days of doing this both aimlessly and in organized fashion, it still felt like I hadn’t even seen half of the more than 2,000 temples, pagodas and monasteries Bagan has to offer.
Some of the namely ones I visited (and would recommend) were: Ananda Temple, Thatbyinnyu Temple, Thitsawadi Pagoda and Htilominlo Pagoda.
Many of the temples and pagodas were/are under construction and the locals beginning to see the impact tourism, and tourists climbing the temples, can have. So majority of then are closed climb for sunset. But after following some coordinates I found a quaint little one to climb and watch sunset.
I wish that I could focus on the beauty in Mt. Popa, because it was truly a “Castle on the Hill,” as Ed Sheeran would say. But today I felt more heart ache than I have felt possibly ever.
The road to Mount Popa from Bagan was about an hour and a half of a newly-paved road winding through the middle of nowhere. It was a dessert for majority of the drive. And this drive is what brought me to tears, to the point that I literally had to just close my eyes.
There were humans, just like me, along this winding road, begging. Some were my grandma’s age and struggled to stand when my car drove by, but still did. And some would’ve only learned to walk one or two years ago, but were within a foot of the car zooming by, throwing up dirt. I’ll spare photos.
I saw 10-15 houses (at most), and hundreds of people. Some had brought together palm leaves to sit under, but most were simply sitting in the hot, dry, dirt.
Most of them simply stuck their hand out, some of the older ladies clasped them together as they hunched over with basic, old clothes hanging from their head and body. Some of the children, most of which in groups, would run at full speed as my airconditioned car with neck pillows and TV’s inside drove by.
And I just could not stop thinking… what did I ever do to deserve to be born in such a different place.
On the way back I started to see many of the people jump up quicker and run for something behind me. So after about 5 minutes and 20-30 people doing this, I turned back and saw a truck with a bed full of a few men and papers flying out the car. The people on the side of the road were running for the truck at a full sprint, as if it’s what they’d waited all day in the 110 degree sun for. I asked my driver what they were throwing and he said money. He said it is normal for other local people to drive through here and throw money to them.
It was gut wrenching to see how desperate these people were, knowing that in that moment there was nothing I could do. So, with tears streaming down my face, I closed my eyes.
At dinner that night, and every night following, the waitress could not stop telling me how beautiful I was. She was between 18-22 years old, and she was absolutely stunning herself. But she radiated happiness and was one of many people, men and women, that I met in Myanmar that truly seemed like some of the kindest souls on the planet. The people of Myanmar were nothing but hospitable and kind to me through every adventure I had, and I never one felt unsafe.
It was sad to see the constant haze in the sky from pollution. I am not sure if it was coming from China, India, or from the trash being burnt many places on the sides of the roads, but the haze never really cleared up even on obvious cloudless days, so I can assume it is like this year round.
I finished this inspiring trip by finding a small temple off the beaten path (the weeds were literally taking over the dirt path) to watch the sunrise. There was a dark pathway up to the top of the temple and as I sat there, alone, watching the balloons float into the air, with nothing but trees and temples and pagodas all around me, I wondered if life could ever be more serine. I still wonder that. And I think I forever will.
Helpful Hints
Hotels:
Aureum Palace Bagan Hotel (actual temples on the property and stunning every time of day
Heritage Bagan Hotel (comfortable for a more affordable option.