I was looking for a quick weekend escape to wake up to mountains and trees instead of tall buildings and city lights, and that is exactly what I got just outside of Hangzhou near West Lake.
After a quick one-hour bullet train from Shanghai, I was unsettled when I first arrived and saw Hangzhou is a city much like Shanghai (later learning Hangzhou is still larger than Chicago and LA combined… just another “small” city in China). But I hopped in a Didi (similar to Uber) and an hour drive took me right where I wanted to be—small village houses and mountains with a jungle-like landscape, and the occasion appetizing bit of dead, handing animals.
My arrival came after I was after trying to board the train and realized I had bought a ticket for the following week. But the train company was very accommodating with refunding and exchanging all bullet train tickets, and they were able to put me on the next available train an hour and a half later. It happens. And I believe it’s very important to remember when travelling, something is bound to happen, likely on multiple occasions. It’s not what happens though, it’s how you handle it. Many of my favorite adventures were because the plan fell apart …like yachting with random Russians in St. Petersburg because there were no more boat tours available on the one night we had to do it. There were full rabbit-suits and a wedding, and I am so glad we missed all the boat tours. A train an hour and a half later way less exciting, but nonetheless…
The owner of the guest house I stayed in was a young woman in her late 20’s, and she later told me it was her and her sister that own and run the entire place—a total of probably 10-15 rooms. Which is impressive no matter what country you are in. They hire cooks and cleaners and handle the rest themselves. Her grandparents lived in the home as well, which is very traditional in China. But typically, the parents move in with their son’s family (likely a big reason why having a boy was/is preferred). But both her and her sister were not married and I imagine there were no sons for the grandparents to move in with. I’d say the girls were doing a damn good job providing though.
I used Alipay to rent a bike to ride around that I found on a sidewalk. I ventured around the infamous West Lake heading no specific direction and, admittedly, was less than impressed. But it was certainly beautiful in its own way relative to its location. As I rode directionless on the road alongside cars, I was amazed how close they would come to hitting me, and every other bike rider, but just never did. Organized chaos is the best way to describe the roads in China. It seems like have significantly less wrecks, but come unbelievably close to hitting one another every other turn.
I found myself famished, in the dark, and freezing cold. I wandered into a food hall and struggle to communicate “veggie dumplings,” but was eventually successful, and the lady who made them could not have been happier to do so. She treated me like I was her daughter. I think she knew I wasn’t from around there.
The incredible and beautiful part of this mountainous area lies in Fei Lai Fend, where there are hundreds of Buddha statues handcrafted into the sides of a limestone mountain. Legend has it that the mountain flew in from India, but that is one of the many legends of course.
The carvings were said to have been done throughout the dynasties, with the latest said to have been done in 985 A.D. The dynasties, and the events the unfolded during each one, is such inconceivable information to learn. Because as an American, our history only goes back to the 1600’s, but even still the first attempt at politics began in the late 1700’s. In Asia, dynasties were ruling the people more than 1000 years ago.
And the most scared of this area is the Lingyin Temple, which has largest, wooden, indoor Buddha in all of China. It was breathtaking the way it sat, covered in gold paint, looking down with a slight grin on the people coming to look up at it.
I was lucky enough to walk in just as a few dozen monks were walking in for their daily practice in the temple. The room quickly filled with spectators from all over China who were eager to join in for prayer. The room was packed and no one dared make a peep. Everyone had their hands clasped in front of them and would make quicks bows occasionally. I could compare it to one of the namely Catholic churches in the United States, but I just don’t think that captures what it was like to be there. There didn’t seem to be anything materialistic about it. Their spirituality was admirable, even at one of the most touristy temples in China.
I know it was disrespectful to take pictures, but it was a moment I wanted to remember forever. It was truly touching, and I wanted to share.
Before I headed back, I sat with the owner of the guest house and her friend while they watched a Chinese reality TV show and I wrote and had a glass of wine. I love soaking in those moments.
Helpful hints!
Lodging – The Mountain – very basic room in the absolute best location
Must visit – Fei Lei Fung